Building The Mujahadeen AR-15

How to finish an 80% AR lower receiver using hand tools. Says the author;
"I'm not a machinist, tool maker or mechanic. I was a tank mechanic in the Army, but most Army mechanics are only parts changers. I was a good parts changer. I am now a human resources manager for a computer hardware manufacturer. I am also a patriot and a pretty good jury rigger. (Someday I'll with a book called "Doing the Job Right With the Wrong Tool!") Before I started this project, I set limits on the tools, power, equipment, supplies and outside help. I have less than the average amount of tools; a 3/8" drill, a set of bits up to 1/2", a set of files, sandpaper, a hacksaw, a Handy Clamp clamp (my vise), a package of JB Weld (good stuff), a DPMS lower, a Model 1 parts kit, a pack of Red Man and a box of Band-Aids."

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Ed's Red Homebrew Gun Cleaning Solvent

''Ed's Red'' Bore Cleaner... Home-Mix Really Works
By C.E. ''Ed'' Harris
Updated & Revised 9-29-95.

Four years ago I mixed my first "Ed's Red" or "ER" bore cleaner and
hundreds of users have told me that they think this home-mixed cleaner
is more effective than commercial products. I urge you to mix some and
give it a fair trial, compared to whatever you have been using.
Competitive shooters, gun clubs and police departments who use a gallon
or more of rifle bore cleaner annually can save by mixing their own, and
they will give up nothing in safety or effectiveness.

This cleaner has an action very similar to standard military issue rifle
bore cleaner, such as Mil-C-372B. Users report it is more effective than
Hoppe's for removing plastic fouling in shotgun bores, or caked carbon
fouling in semi-automatic rifles or pistols, or in removing leading in
revolvers. It is not as effective as Sweets 7.62, Hoppe's Bench Rest
Nine or Shooter's Choice for fast removal of heavy copper fouling in
rifle bores. However, because "ER" is more effective in removing caked
carbon and abrasive primer residues than other cleaners, metal fouling
is greatly reduced when "ER" is used on a continuing basis.

I originally came up with this mix because I am an active high power
rifle competitive shooter and hand loading experimenter who uses a lot
of rifle bore cleaner. I was not satisfied with the performance and high
price of commercial products. I knew there was no technical reason why
an effective firearm bore cleaner couldn't be mixed using common
hardware store ingredients. The result is inexpensive, effective,
provides good corrosion protection and adequate residual lubrication so
that routine "oiling" after cleaning is rarely necessary, except for
long-term storage of over 1 year, or harsh service environments, such as
salt water exposure.

This formula is based on proven principles and incorporates two polar
and two nonpolar solvents. It is adapted from the one in Hatcher's
Notebook for "Frankford Arsenal Cleaner No.18," but substituting
equivalent modern materials. I had the help of an organic chemist in
doing this and we knew there would be no "surprises." The original
Hatcher formula called for equal parts of acetone, turpentine, Pratts
Astral Oil and sperm oil, and optionally 200 grams of anhydrous lanolin
added per liter. Some discussion of the ingredients is helpful to
understand the properties of the cleaner and how it works.

Pratts Astral oil was nothing more than acid free, deodorized kerosene.
I recommend "K1" kerosene of the type normally sold for use in indoor
space heaters. Some users have reported successful substitution of
civilian aviation grade kerosene such as Turbo-A. I am reluctant to
"recommend" substitution of aviation grade kerosene, because the effects
upon firearm components of the additives required in aviation fuels are
unknown. Some "jet- fuels" are gasoline/kerosene blends and absolutely
should not be used, because of their increased flammability.

An inexpensive, effective substitute for sperm oil is Dexron (II, IIe or
III) automatic transmission fluid. Prior to about 1950 that most ATF's
were sperm oil based, but during WWII a synthetic was developed for use
in precision instruments. With the great demand for automatic
transmission autos after WWII, sperm oil was no longer practical to
produce ATF in the quantity demanded, so the synthetic material became
the basis for the Dexron fluids we know today. The additives in ATFs
which include organometallic antioxidants and surfactants, make it
highly suitable for inclusion in an all-purpose
cleaner-lubricant-preservative.

Hatcher's original Frankford Arsenal No. 18 formula used gum spirits of
turpentine. Because turpentine is expensive today, and is also an
"aromatic" solvent, which is highly flammable, I chose not to use it.
Safer and cheaper is "aliphatic mineral spirits," a petroleum based
"safety solvent" used for thinning oil based paints and also widely used
as an automotive parts cleaner. It is commonly sold under the names
"odorless mineral spirits," "Stoddard Solvent" or "Varsol".

Acetone is included in "ER" to provide an aggressive, fast-acting
solvent for caked powder residues. Because acetone is an aromatic,
organic solvent, it is recommended that users leave it out if the
cleaner will be used in enclosed spaces lacking forced air ventilation.
The acetone in ER will evaporate, liberating volatile organic compounds
(VOCs) into the atmosphere unless containers are kept tightly closed
when not in use. The cleaner is still effective without the acetone, but
it is not as "fast-acting."

There isn't anything in Ed's Red which chemically dissolves copper
fouling in rifle bores, but it does a better job removing on carbon and
primer residue than anything else which is safe and commonly available.
Numerous users have told me, that exclusive use of "ER" reduces copper
deposits, because it removes the old impacted powder fouling which is
left by other cleaners, which reduces the abrasion and adhesion of
jacket metal to the bore surface, leaving a cleaner surface condition
which reduces subsequent fouling. Experience seems to indicate that "ER"
will actually remove metal fouling it if you let it "soak," so the
surfactants will do the job, though you have to be patient.

Addition of the lanolin to ER bore cleaner mix is entirely optional. The
cleaner works quite well and gives adequate corrosion protection and
lubrication for most users without it. Incorporating the lanolin makes
the cleaner easier on the hands, and increases lubricity and film
strength, and improves corrosion protection if weapons will be routinely
exposed to salt air, water spray, industrial or urban corrosive
atmospheres, or if you intend to use the cleaner as a protectant for
long term storage of over 1 year.

If you use other protective films for adverse use or long term storage
you can leave the lanolin out and save about $8 per gallon. At current
retail prices you can buy all the ingredients to mix ER, without the
lanolin for about $10 per gallon. I urge you to mix some yourself. I am
confident it will work as well for you as it does for me and hundreds of
users who got the "recipe" on the Fidonet Firearms Echo.


CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

1 part Dexron II, IIe or III ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.

1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1

1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS
#64741-49-9, or may substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or
equivalent, (aka "Varsol")

1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.

(Optional up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, OK to
substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)

MIXING INSTRUCTIONS FOR "ER" BORE CLEANER:

Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal,
chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA
approved plastic gasoline storage containers are also OK. Do NOT use
HDPE, which is permeable, because the acetone will eventually evaporate.
The acetone in ER will also attack HDPE, causing the container to
collapse, making a heck of a mess!

Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the other
components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the
lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking
precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger
container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and
stirring until it is all dissolved.

I recommend diverting a small quantity, up to 4 ozs. per quart of the
50-50 ATF/kerosene mix for optional use as an "ER-compatible" gun oil.
This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the remaining
mix.


LABEL AND NECESSARY SAFETY WARNINGS:

RIFLE BORE CLEANER CAUTION: FLAMMABLE MIXTURE
HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN

1. Flammable mixture. Keep away from heat, sparks or flame.

2. FIRST AID, If swallowed DO NOT induce vomiting, call physician
immediately. In case of eye contact immediately flush thoroughly with
water and call a physician. For skin contact wash thoroughly.

3. Use with adequate ventilation. Avoid breathing vapors or spray mist.
It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner
inconsistent with its labelling. Reports have associated repeated and
prolonged occupational overexposure to solvents with permanent brain and
nervous system damage. If using in closed armory vaults lacking forced
air ventilation wear respiratory protection meeting NIOSH TC23C or
equivalent. Keep container tightly closed when not in use.


INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING "Ed's Red (ER)" Bore Cleaner:

1. Open the firearm action and ensure the bore is clear. Cleaning is
most effective when done while the barrel is still warm to the touch
from firing. Saturate a cotton patch with bore cleaner, wrap or impale
on jag and push it through the bore from breech to muzzle. The patch
should be a snug fit. Let the first patch fall off and do not pull it
back into the bore.

2. Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore from the
breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area forward in 4-5" strokes
and gradually advancing until the patch emerges out the muzzle. Waiting
approximately 1 minute to let the bore cleaner soak will improve its
action.

3. For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled "rattle battle" guns, leaded
revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with bore cleaner may be
used to remove stubborn deposits. This is unnecessary for smooth,
target-grade barrels in routine use.

4. Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to flush out
loosened residue dissolved by Ed's Red. Let the patch fall off the jag
without pulling it back into the bore. If you are finished firing,
leaving the bore wet will protect it from rust for 1 year under average
conditions.

5. If the lanolin is incorporated into the mixture, it will protect the
firearm from rust for up to two years. For longer term storage I
recommend use of Lee Liquid Alox as a Cosmolene substitute. "ER" will
readily remove hardened Alox or Cosmolene.

6. Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing the gun.
While Ed's Red is harmless to blue and nickel finishes, the acetone it
contains is harmful to most wood finishes).

7. Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore and dry
the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably sized brush or jag.
First shot point of impact usually will not be disturbed by Ed's Red if
the bore is cleaned as described.

8. I have determined to my satisfaction that when Ed's Red is used
exclusively and thoroughly, that hot water cleaning is unnecessary after
use of Pyrodex or military chlorate primers. However, if bores are not
wiped between shots and shots and are heavily caked from black powder
fouling, hot water cleaning is recommended first to break up heavy
fouling deposits. Water cleaning should be followed by a thorough flush
with Ed's Red to prevent after-rusting which could result from residual
moisture. It is ALWAYS good practice to clean TWICE, TWO DAYS APART
whenever using chlorate primed ammunition, just to make sure you get all
the corrosive residue out.

This "Recipe" is placed in the public domain, and may be freely
distributed provided that it is done so in its entirely with all current
revisions, instructions and safety warnings included herein, and that
proper attribution is given to the author.

In Home Mix We Trust, Regards, Ed

Cheap, Quick Revolver Check

A quality revolver is a very useful firearm that with proper care can last the life of its owner and beyond. I have always appreciated a good revolver, having begun my handgunning career in my preteen years with a Smith and Wesson Model 27 .357 Magnum. I tend to prefer older, used revolvers because most of them were built to higher standards than today's new revolvers, where quality takes a back seat to lawyer-proofing. When I buy a used revolver, I don't mind a bit of honest exterior finish wear so long as the working parts are within specification. But there are a few things I like to check on a used (or even new, for that matter) revolver to make sure I will be getting my money's worth if I buy it. The main things I check are timing, barrel-to-cylinder gap, chamber throat diameter, forcing cone diameter, and headspace. To check these things I like to carry along a few basic tools that will fit an a pocket. In fact, it is a good idea to pack all of these items into a small pouch, along with an oil-soaked cleaning rag to wipe any residue, dust etc. off the revolver before checking it. These items can all be bought for less than ten dollars total, and include the following:

•  Small flashlight. One of the tiny LED lights powered by a coin cell will suffice, as will any cheap, disposable penlight or any other pocket-size flashlight.
• Blade-type feeler gauge. You can get these at any auto-parts store for around five bucks or less. Make sure it has, at minimum, a 0.008" (eight thousandths) blade. In fact, you could get by with just that one blade if you want to minimize weight and bulk.
• A bullet of the correct size for the revolver in question. Note I said a bullet, not a cartridge. Sorry to be so blunt, but if you don't know the difference, learn more about guns before you buy one. If you are looking at a revolver at your local gunshop and you pull out a loaded round, the proprietor is very likely to draw his own, loaded gun. I would. Besides which, a loaded round won't work very well for this test. The bullet can be jacketed and of nominal groove diameter of the revolver in question (.357 for .38 Special and .357 Magnum, for example) or cast lead and a thousandth over nominal (.358 for .38 or .357).
• Two hex or Allen keys, in the sizes of 1/16-inch and 5/64-inch.

When you are looking at a revolver and decide you are interested enough to check it out further, the first thing to do is ask permission by saying something like, "Do you mind if I check the clearances?" I do this while pulling out my small tool kit. That way he can see that my tools are not likely to damage the revolver and do not include screwdrivers or any other tool with which I might actually disassemble the gun. I might even quickly reassure the proprietor or salesman that I don't intend to take anything apart. In the unlikely event that the seller refuses permission to check the clearances, I would probably lay the revolver on the counter, thank him for his time, and leave immediately. But the chances are very good that you won't encounter this problem, so having secured permission, here is the procedure I use:

1. Swing out the cylinder (or open the loading gate, in the case of a single action revolver) and check that all chambers are unloaded. Wipe the metal parts of the revolver with your cleaning rag, paying special attention to the front and rear faces of the cylinder, the breech area, and underneath the extractor star. Close the cylinder.
2. Grasp the cylinder and move it fore and aft. There should be little to no discernible movement.
3. Point the muzzle skyward and grasp the handle in your palm, with your thumb near the trigger. Cock the hammer. Pull and hold the trigger fully to the rear with your thumb, while controlling and lowering the hammer with your other hand. While continuing to hold the trigger to the rear, shine the flashlight into the muzzle and make sure the chamber aligns with the bore. If it doesn't, you will see a crescent of the cylinder face on one side or the other. If you see that, the revolver has timing issues and should be passed over. While continuing to hold the trigger back, rock (rotate) the cylinder from side to side. There will usually be some movement, but it should be minimal. Now release the trigger, cock and lower the hammer to bring up the next chamber, and repeat the process for each chamber.
4. With the cylinder closed, point the muzzle at the floor. Cock and lower the hammer and hold the trigger to the rear. Insert the 0.008" blade of your feeler gauge through the gap between the cylinder face and the forcing cone (rear of the barrel). If it fits easily and with no drag, walk away. This revolver needs major work. If it fits but drags, it is at the outer limit of acceptability. I would still probably pass on that one, especially if the dealer has more revolvers like it. Ideally you want a 0.003" blade to fit, but a 0.006" blade to not fit; but a 0.006" fit with drag is still quite acceptable. The larger this gap, the lower the velocity with a given load; but it needs at least 0.003" clearance to prevent binding from firing residue and heat expansion. Repeat this test with all chambers.
5. If you noticed significant fore-aft movement (end shake) in Step 2, you can check it like this: with the hammer down and your finger off the trigger, measure the barrel-to-cylinder gap (as in Step 4) of one chamber while pulling the cylinder to the rear. Then remove that blade and measure the gap while pushing the cylinder fully forward. Subtract the first measurement from the second; it should not exceed 0.004" (four thousandths).
6. Open the cylinder, or remove it if the gun is a single-action. Insert the bullet lightly into the forcing cone. It should enter partially but not fully. If you can easily insert the bullet until its base is flush with the rear of the barrel, the forcing cone (and hence the barrel) is worn out. Now insert the bullet into each chamber throat in turn. A jacketed bullet should just slip into the chamber throats with no effort, but it should not be loose. A lead bullet should be a tight fit.
7. Lastly, the headspace. Most people don't even check it on a revolver, but overly generous clearance here can cause misfires, reduce velocity and accuracy, and if you reload, cause your cases to wear out prematurely. The rough test is to just use the 5/64-inch Allen key. That is 0.07825" across the flats, and if you can insert that between the rear of the (unloaded) cylinder and the breech plate while holding the cylinder forward, the headspace is well beyond acceptable limits and needs a complete rebuild at best. For most common revolver cartridges, minimum headspace is 0.060". Maximum is 0.070" for magnums and 0.074" for non-magnums. That holds true for .38 Special, .357 Magnum, .44 Special/Magnum, and .45 Colt. If you are checking anything other than those, I suggest you look it up on the SAAMI website. Ok, assuming the 5/64 didn't fit (if it did, forget that revolver), try the 1/16-inch key. That is 0.0625" across the flats and about 0.069" across the points. If it will almost but not quite fit, it may still be right at the minimum headspace. That is actually a good thing. Your feeler gauge may have the right combination of blades to allow you to determine within a thousandth or so what the headspace is. If the 1/16-inch key fit, try gently turning it. As long as you can feel contact on both sides (cylinder and breech) as you turn it, it is within spec. Note that this doesn't apply to any revolver whose chambers are recessed to accept the case rim, like early Smith and Wesson Magnums. On those guns you will have to use a feeler gauge. 0.020" would be maximum, 0.010" preferable, and no minimum so long as the cylinder will close and rotate.

Once you have finished these tests, you know much more about a particular revolver than you did before. This should enable you to make an informed decision on whether or not to buy it.&nbsp

AR-15 Pistol Rifling Twist

I recently built this AR-15 pistol from a virgin lower receiver that had never been assembled into a rifle. In reading the gun forums concerning AR pistols, one of the recurring themes is that only a fast 1:7" rifling twist should be used in the shortest common AR pistol barrel length of 7.5 inches, because that barely allows over one full rifling turn.
By that thinking, it should be impossible for the typical .38 Special revolver to shoot accurately. One turn in 18 inches is a common twist rate for .38 Special and .357 Magnum, and even a 6 inch barrel only provides one third of a turn to the projectile.
I bought my AR-15 pistol barrel with a 1:9 inch twist. So far, it seems to shoot just fine.
 

Inexpensive AR-15 Pistol

I built this AR pistol for less than $500. This was a virgin stripped lower receiver I bought awhile back and had never gotten around to building. So when I got the itch to build an AR-15 pistol, this was the perfect lower to build it on since this lower has never been built into a rifle. Check your local and state laws before you do this, but according to federal law and the laws of my state, this is legal. I had a full-length buffer, spring and tube that wasn't being used. The stock attachment threads were stripped, so I bored out the threads and used it. Cheaper and more reliable than the short pistol tubes.

Pryotex Universal Square Bolt

This is a modified Suomi KP31 bolt that fits in round or square tubes and uses an AR-15 firing pin for closed-bolt operation. Perfect for homebuilt blowback 9mm carbines.

Redneck .32-20 Rifle from a No. 4 Enfield

This is an ingenious rework of a worn-out No. 4 Enfield. He basically cut the barrel off just ahead of the chamber, drilled out the chamber so the barrel could slide inside it, and secured it with setscrews. Then he used setscrews to chamber it for .32-20. Here he is shooting it: Wecsogging at its best!